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Venus Envy: A History of Cosmetic Surgery
by Elizabeth Haiken (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins
University Press, 1997) pp. 370.
Most people in our culture would likely
agree that surgery to correct physical deformity
is an appropriate step in optimizing health
and well being. The key difficulty however
lies in defining what constitutes "deformity".
This thoughtful account of the history
of cosmetic surgery in the United States
highlights this dilemma without attempting
to settle it. Haiken is a professor of History
at the University of Tennessee and bring
a non-medical approach to the troubling
issues, which is quite refreshing to the
regular reader of medically oriented books
and papers.
Towards the end of the nineteenth century,
surgeons began experimenting with techniques,
which aimed not to just save lives, but
also to improve them. Techniques to correct
perceived social stigma, from the saddle
nose deformity of syphilis to the crow's
feet of aging, were developed. The sad aftermath
of wounds received during World War I lead
to a rapid acceleration in surgical capability
as well as to a wide appreciation of the
possibilities on the part of the public.
"Feel-good" stories in the public press
describing how soldiers with shattered faces
were able, through the new surgical techniques,
to return to normal lives were very popular,
and fed the demand for procedures to modify
features that while not induced by injury
were none the less unacceptable to their
owners.
From these early beginnings Haiken traces
the development of cultural attitudes towards
cosmetic surgery. Rather than use a medical
perspective, which would refer to the development
of medical knowledge, her approach is to
look at the changing social context and
how the surgical specialty was impacted
by it. Making extensive use of medical archives,
popular magazines and films, she examines
the impact of fashion and style, the American
zeal for self-improvement, and the universal
need to "fit in" in the growth of cosmetic
surgery.
Troubling questions such as the impact
of racism, sexism and ageism are discussed
thoughtfully and with insight. Haikim offers
no facile answers but leaves readers to
draw their own conclusions.
Fascinating drawings and photos from popular
magazines as well as medical texts illustrate
the work. Celebrities' use of cosmetic surgery
(Fanny Brice, Michael Jackson, Cher) or
not (Barbra Streisand) is used to exemplify
many of the ideas in the text. The writing
is generally lucid and clear, although her
historian's use of run-on sentences could
occasionally give the writers of medical
texts (and perhaps book reviewers) a run
for their money.
This book will appeal to not just medial
historians and those interested in the interface
between culture and medicine, but also to
anyone with an interest in the human desire
for physical beauty.
Allyn Walsh
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